Boy oh boy. What a time.
Rosa Lynn Messersmith came to Tangier at a perfect time. There are several stages to culture shock, and Rosa is visiting me during the “frustration and annoyance with differences in everyday life” stage. I have been dealing with several cultural differences, such as bargaining for everything, screaming in the streets, clothing differences (GOD I MISS WEARING SWEATPANTS), personal space in public areas, personal space in professional areas, communication standards, and the concept of having officially rented an apartment. I’m not going to lie, I thought with my ample experience abroad that I would have “outgrown” feeling culture shock so intensely, but Morocco is definitely challenging. It is an entire mission to buy myself food in the market, to cook on my gas stove, to find the silverware, sheets, pots, pans, lightbulbs, and internet I need for my home. Don’t get me started on the quest it was to find a shower curtain WITH rings and a SHOWER ROD. It was difficult to explain to a man in a store why a 2 meter metal poll would not suffice…I don’t know the word for “adjustable” in Arabic!
Luckily, despite my many tiresome adventures completing regular household chores, Rosa was able to conjure from me the small bit of energy I had left and we ventured down to Marrakesh so she could see the Sahara Desert. I don’t think there is anyone else I would make this trip for, so don’t ask. Unless you want to fund my ROTH IRA this year. Tangier is one of the most northern cities in Morocco, so our journey was long. 9 hours by train to Marrakesh, 10 hours by car to the desert, 10 hours by car back from the desert, and 9 hours back by train to Tangier. Combine all of this into a 4 day weekend excursion, and you’ve got yourself two very tired Americans with sensory overload.
Although I’ve done substantial research on Morocco, I remain impressed by the vast spectrum of natural phenomenons. In the course of 72 hours, Rosa and I saw the beach, mountains, snow, and the desert. While the trip to the desert was long, we enjoyed the winding roads up and down mountains, the views of the desert, the snow-capped mountains in the distance, and the hundreds of small and colorful shops we passed.
Once in Marrakesh, we met up with another Fulbrighter placed in the city. Marrakesh had an entirely different feeling. It was the “Morocco” you’d expect to visit. Bustling with people, tight narrow roads full of stores brimming with colorful jewelry and pottery, cobras in the street, monkeys wearing diapers jumping from person to person, and a plaza full of juices derived from fruits I don’t know the name of in any language. It was like Aladdin, but in real life. Every Orientalist’s dream.
Unlike in Tangier, I was able to communicate with most of the Moroccans we met. As one would expect in a tourist region, pictures with cobras are not free. This is one of the “scams” we were warned about before going. Whip out your phone, it could be stolen. Sway too long at a musical event, make sure you check your pockets. Walk too close to a snake, it will be placed on you until you pay the owner.
However, Marrakesh did not live up to this reputation for me. I was easily able to speak to the owners of the cobras and the snakes, negotiate a price, and get the “Orientalist experience.” I found that by using Arabic, I was treated entirely differently than the pale, blond, rosy-cheeked English people a few paces away. When they attempted to hussle me and Rosa into paying 20 dirhams PER monkey held instead of PER picture, I responded in Arabic, “Ya saudeeke, ya allah, hoowah kal le hatha 20 dirhams fakaut” (Come’on friends, my god, he told me it was only 20 dirhams in total.” They laughed, and moved onto the next tourists. I felt gratified that I held a monkey, a snake, and used my Arabic to my advantage. Moments like this, where I am able to negotiate a real-world situation while sharing a laugh with Moroccans, make the intense Arabic-learning journey worth it. The next time someone tells me learning Arabic is hard, I’ll tell them NEGOTIATING TO HOLD A SNAKE IN MARRAKESH WITHOUT ARABIC IS HARDER!
Overall, this last month in Tangier has been challenging and rewarding. I have started my classes with my students, all obtaining their master’s from the institution, and they have proven to be so insightful, intelligent, kind, and extremely good at English. They even tolerate my humor and my lamentations about how ridiculous it is that Americans don’t use the metric system. Teaching them has been the most rewarding part about being in Morocco and reminds me why I am here, away from my family, loving boyfriend, and sense of STRUCTURE.
Teaching has certainly been a new experience. Unlike in the United States where the academic calendar is released a year in advance, professors follow a syllabus, and STRUCTURE is the name of the game, the educational system here is different. While many universities in Morocco started in September and some haven’t even started up again, we began mid-October. I was told I would be teaching an English class, focused on writing and reading, and was then left to my own devices. As someone who thrives on STRUCTURE, micromanaging, and deadlines, this atmosphere was a bit daunting at first. However, I have learned that the more relaxed environment here has its perks. I can teach what I want! I have already spent many hours speaking with my parents, trying to express my admiration for their difficult job is that I can now empathize with, and asking them for interesting learning activities. I know how to entertain children, but adults are different. How to shape a classroom to be an engaging learning environment while encouraging language growth in the most tedious sectors (READING AND WRITING) is difficult. For my two hour class this week, I spent over 9 hours preparing.
I have learned, however, Kahoot draws smiles across all age groups.
I will say, despite the lack of STRUCTURE and my initial uneasiness regarding teaching a classroom of 40 students for 2 hours about English literature, my two contacts at the school have been nothing but kind, generous, and helpful. They have answered all of my questions, offered me counsel on numerous issues outside of the classroom, and have given me a lovely introduction into the university work-life. I am very grateful, I know other Fulbright ETA’s have not had this experience with their faculty. I feel cared for, supported, and valued. Alhumdaleelah
I am slowly developing my teaching style. I try to be kind but firm. I give my students a 5 minute break, but chase them back into the classroom with my timer once it hits 4:50. It is challenging to have students read and write in class without it becoming mundane and routine, but luckily they are flexible, eager to learn, and I at least hope to have an American teacher. At first, I was worried that I was not offering them enough material, but I learned today in class that they have ELEVEN courses each week. My class is just one of ELEVEN! As a recent graduate, I can empathize with the exhaustion just sitting in a classroom for that many hours each week will bring. I have decided that if anything, I want my classroom to be a place where they enjoy learning, even if that means we play Kahoot one day instead of reading Emerson. While learning a language involves intensity, routine practice, and often unpleasant repetition, when I have applied language in a rewarding scenario (ex. With the Cobra Men), I have felt rejuvenated in my language acquisition path. I hope that my class can serve as an energy source throughout what I’m sure will be a challenging semester.
I’ve had my first visitor and Mom and Dad will visit soon. As I continue to establish myself here in Tangier, I’ve reflected on how much I’ve already grown. Those who know me would not use the words “flexible, adaptable, or patient” to describe me. However, I’m confident by the time I return to the states, these will be some of my most admirable qualities…in addition to my outstanding sense of humor and humility.
